If anywhere can lay claim to being the most famous resort in Europe it is probably Saint-Tropez. At the height of summer there can be as many as 100,000 visitors every day, here to ogle the multi-million pound yachts lining the quaysides of the old port ranging from the sleekly beautiful to the outright vulgar. There is plenty in the town to cater for this well-heeled crowd and their ‘wannabee’ imitators including high-end boutiques, incredibly expensive restaurants and ‘must-to-be-seen-in’ night clubs. And yet, somewhere beneath this veneer of conspicuous wealth with its over-bronzed devotees there are reminders of a time when artists were drawn to the beauty and tranquility of a humble Mediterranean fishing village.
It’s history dates back to the time of the Greeks and Romans and the name comes from the martyr Saint Torpes who was supposedly beheaded in Pisa during the reign of Emperor Nero for being a Christian and his body set adrift in a boat together with a rooster and a dog. This unlikely threesome finally washed ashore where the town is now located. After the fall of Rome the area became an Arabic-Muslim colony for several centuries and this was followed by a succession of competing noble families until Count René (or ‘Good King René’) took over in 1463. With help from the Genoese he established the Barony of Grimaud and eventually the town became a small republic with its own fleet and army. Over the following centuries it prospered and resisted attacks by the Turks and Spaniards until Louis XIV finally reasserted French control in 1672 and so it has remained ever since.
Subsequent invaders have been of a more ‘cultural’ kind, starting with the painter Paul Signac and his contemporaries in the late nineteenth century. They were followed by a host of ‘arty’ types and by the 1920’s Saint-Tropez had become ‘the’ destination of choice for hedonistic pleasure-seekers from around Europe and America. This reputation was further enhanced in the 1950’s when it became the setting for glamourous films such as ‘And God Created Woman’ starring Bridget Bardot. This heady mix of sun, sex and celebrity continues to this day and the international cast has now been joined by the mega-rich from Russia, China and every other corner of the globe. The extravagant personality of the place is epitomised by Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, a regatta held in late September, at which the play-things of billionaires compete in a festival of all things nautical – but some the boats are truly works of art in themselves. However there is still a great deal to enchant and intrigue a casual visitor of more modest means with other, more thoughtful interests. Artists from more recent generations including David Hockney, continue to find inspiration in the place.
HOW TO GET TO SAINT-TROPEZ
By air The nearest airport is La Môle – Saint-Tropez located 15km southwest of the town. However, this caters mainly for the private and executive market and there are no regular commercial flights from the UK. The other airports nearby are Toulon-Hyères (52km) which has a limited range of flights from the UK (sometimes including a change at Paris) and Nice Côte d’Azure (95km) which is well served with regular flights from several airports in the UK.
By train and bus Saint-Tropèz is not served by the railway and the nearest station is at Saint-Raphaël (39km) which has regular connections with Paris and Nice. There is a direct bus link from the station to Saint-Tropèz and also a boat service. There are also stations at Toulon which is served by regular direct trains from Paris and Hyères which has a limited direct service from Paris. It is then possible to take a bus from either of these places direct to Saint-Tropèz.
By car Saint-Tropèz is located on a peninsular and is some distance from the major trunk roads in the region. It has to be approached by more minor roads and the traffic into and out of the town can be an absolute nightmare, especially in high season. The main routes into the town are: From the A8 (E80) take the D25 to Sainte-Maxime and then the D559 to Port Cogolin and then the D98A into Saint-Tropèz. From the A57 take the D558 to Grimaud and then the D14 and D61 until joining the D98 and D98A into Saint-Tropèz. Another route from the A57 is to take the A570 to the east of Toulon and follow this through Hyères until it becomes the D98 and then continue all the way to the junction with the D98A and then into Saint-Tropèz. Finally there is the coast road, the D559, which branches off from the D98 at Bormes-les-Mimosas and passes through Le Lavandou and Cavalaire-sur-Mer before turning inland to join the D98A and then into Saint-Tropèz.
Tourist information in Saint-Tropez Quai Jean Jaurès, 83990 Saint-Tropez Tel: 08 92 68 48 28 Website: www.uk.sainttropeztourisme.com Open: July–August 09.30–13.30 and 15.00–19.00; January–March and November–December 09.30–12.30 and 14.00–18.00; April–June and September–October 09.30–12.30 and 14.00–19.00 Closed: December 25 and January 1.
MUSEUMS AND PLACES OF INTEREST
Musée de l’Annonciade Housed in a beautiful 16th century chapel the museum boasts an impressive collection of paintings from the Post-Impressionist period including works by Signac, Vuillard, Bonnard, Derain, Matisse Braque and Picasso. Place Grammont, 83990 Saint-Tropez Tel: 04 94 17 84 10 E-mail: annonciade@ville-sainttropez.fr Website: www.sainttropeztourisme.com Open: Every day except Tuesday 10.00–13.00 and 14.00–18.00. Closed: November, January 1, May 1 and 17, Ascension Day, December 25. There is an entry fee.
Maison des Papillons An impressive collection of more than 35,000 butterflies from all over the world. 17 rue Etienne Berny, 83990 Saint-Tropez Tel: 04 94 97 63 45 E-mail: papillons.sainttropez@orange.fr Website: www.sainttropeztourisme.com Open: February 15–November 9 and December 20–January 4, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday 10.00–12.30 and 14.00–18.00; Friday 14.00–18.00; Sunday 10.0012.30 and 14.00–17.00. Closed: Monday and Tuesday; May 1, 16, 17, 18; December 25; January 1 There is an entry fee.
Citadelle de Saint-Tropez Impressive 17th century fortifications overlooking the town with panoramic views. There is also a maritime museum housed in the dungeon. Citadelle de Saint-Tropez, 83990 Saint-Tropez tel: 04 94 97 59 43 E-mail: citadelle@ville-sainttropez.fr Website: www.sainttropeztourisme.com Open: October 1–March 31, 10.00–17.30; April 1–September 30, 10.00–18.30. Closed January 1, May 1 and 17, November 11, December 25. There is an entry charge.
Subsequent invaders have been of a more ‘cultural’ kind, starting with the painter Paul Signac and his contemporaries in the late nineteenth century. They were followed by a host of ‘arty’ types and by the 1920’s Saint-Tropez had become ‘the’ destination of choice for hedonistic pleasure-seekers from around Europe and America. This reputation was further enhanced in the 1950’s when it became the setting for glamourous films such as ‘And God Created Woman’ starring Bridget Bardot. This heady mix of sun, sex and celebrity continues to this day and the international cast has now been joined by the mega-rich from Russia, China and every other corner of the globe. The extravagant personality of the place is epitomised by Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, a regatta held in late September, at which the play-things of billionaires compete in a festival of all things nautical – but some the boats are truly works of art in themselves. However there is still a great deal to enchant and intrigue a casual visitor of more modest means with other, more thoughtful interests. Artists from more recent generations including David Hockney, continue to find inspiration in the place.
