Dramatic changes have been imposed on the appearance of many, previously quiet and picturesque, communities on the Côte d’Azur, very often not for the better. However the sturdy ramparts of the town seem to have acted as a defence against the worst of twentieth century developments and the narrow streets retain much of the character of a traditional Provencal coastal town.
The history of the place dates back to its time as the ancient Greek colony of Antipolis, later taken over and developed by the Romans. This long period of prosperity came to an end with the decline of the Roman Empire and the settlement experienced a period of instability at the hands of various barbarian tribes. In the 10th century there was a respite from the ravages of strife when Seigneur Rodoart took over and refortified the town with a castle and strong walls. These afforded protection to the community in the midst of centuries of chaos which lasted until the end of the 15th century when the town came under the control of King Louis XI of France. The impressive Fort Carre was built to protect the strategic harbour in these troubled times.
The town now became embroiled in territorial conflicts between France and the Kingdom of Savoy and eventually Louis XIV commissioned the renowned military architect Vauban with the task of enhancing the towns defences and it is thanks to his efforts that the town resisted a dreadful siege during the War of Austrian Succession. In 1860 the once-hostile County of Nice was finally recognised officially as part of France and it was then that the town lost much of its strategic importance.
However, this coincided with other developments in social history and, with the arrival of the railways, the area became a focus for the new tourist industry catering for the wealthy citizens of France and beyond. Antibes became a magnet for the fashionable elites from the worlds of politics, literature, art and high society. Nearby Cap d’Antibes and Juan les Pins were developed to offer summer homes for the seriously wealthy and luxury hotels and casinos provided diversion and entertainment. At the end of the century some of the town’s fortifications were swept away to make room for more developments mainly related to the hospitality business.
These leisure related developments have mushroomed and Port Vauban is now the largest yachting harbour in Europe, offering a tax-friendly anchorage to the playthings of those from the merely wealthy to billionaires and multinational corporations. The ‘value’ of these ostentatious symbols rubbing shoulders with one another must rival that of the economies of many small nations. Amazing, impressive, vulgar and obscene are all adjectives that could be used to describe the scene depending on your point of view.
Amidst this display of affluence the old walled town retains a dignified presence and provides the art lover with a wealth of treats. The Musée Picasso is housed in the Château Grimaldi where the artist actually had a studio for a while after the Second World War and here you can see many of his works and those of other important figures of the twentieth century including Nicolas de Staël who also lived just round the corner. There are numerous commercial galleries and studios in the town and the area continues to inspire new generations of artists. Simply walking the narrow streets in the footsteps of not only Picasso, but Guy de Maupassant, Claude Monet, Paul Signac, Nikos Kazanzakis, Graham Greene, to name but a few, is a delight and to stand in the spot where some of the most iconic images of modern painting were created is a revelation ... as we will discover.
HOW TO GET TO ANTIBES
By air The nearest airport is Cannes Mandelieu but this caters mainly for the private and executive market and there are no regular commercial flights from the UK. The nearest international airport is Nice Côte d’Azure (17km) which is well served with regular flights from several airports in the UK. There is a good bus link from the airport to the town (line 250).
By train Antibes is on the main line from Paris and Marseille to Nice and beyond. It is well served by TGV and regional trains.
By bus In addition to line 250 to and from Nice airport there are numerous regional and local buses serving the town. This includes line 200 between Nice and Cannes.
By car Antibes is close to the main highway serving the South of France, the A8 or “la Provençale”. Exit 44 should be taken and follow the signs for Antibes and Juan-les-Pins.
Tourist information in Antibes 42 Avenue Robert Soleau, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 22 10 60 10 Fax: 04 22 10 60 11 Website: www.antibesjuanlespins.com E-mail: accueil@antibesjuanlespins.com Open: July–August 09.00–19.00; September–June, Monday–Friday 09.00–12.30 and 13.30–18.00, Saturday 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00, Sunday 09.00–13.00 Closed: December 25 and January 1.
MUSEUMS AND PLACES OF INTEREST
Musée Picasso Housed in a spectacular château which is built on the site of the original Greek acropolis and the subsequent Roman fort and medieval castle the museum boasts an impressive collection of work by Picasso which he completed while working here for a six month period after the Second World War. There are also paintings and sculptures by other leading figures of the twentieth century including key works by Nicolas de Staël as well as examples by more contemporary artists. Château Grimaldi, Place Mariejol, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 92 90 54 20/26 Fax: 04 92 90 54 21 E-mail: annonciade@ville-sainttropez.fr Website: www.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr Open: Every day except Monday, 15 June–15 September 10.00–18.00, 16 September–14 June 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00. Ticketing closes at 17.30. Open on Wednesday and Friday evenings in July and August until 20.00, ticketing closes at 19.30. Closed: November 1, January 1, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Fondation Hartung Bergman Hans Hartung and Anna-Eva Bergman were leading figures in abstract painting in the second half of the twentieth century and in the 1960’s they built a villa and studios which have been recognised as a remarkable set of buildings. After their deaths a foundation dedicated to their lives and work was created and the complex opened to the public in 1994. The foundation also hosts temporary exhibitions. 173 Chemin du Valbosquet, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 93 33 45 92 Fax: 04 93 33 27 33 E-mail: public@fondationhartungbergman.fr Website: www.fondationhartungbergman.fr Open: There are Friday afternoon guided tours (in French) at 14.00 from April to October but you must register in advance by e-mail or telephone. There is an entry fee.
Fort Carre Originally built on the orders of Henri II of France in the 16th century this impressive fortification was later enhanced by Vauban to provide defence for the strategic port of Antibes. The area around the fort is now a protected park. Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 92 90 52 Website: www.antibesjuanlespins.com Open: Every day except Monday. Tuesday–Friday 12.30–16.00, Saturday and most Sundays 10.00–16.00. Closed: Mondays, May 1, November 1, December 25 and January 1 There is an entry fee. Guided tour included.
Musée d’Archéologie Part of Vauban’s impressive fortifications is now home to an impressive display of artifacts recovered from land and sea including finds from Etruscan, Greek, Phoenician and Roman ships. Bastion Saint-André, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 93 95 85 98 Open: Every day except Mondays. 15 June–15 September 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00, 16 September–14 June 10.00–13.00 and 14.00–17.00.October 1–March 31, 10.00–17.30; April 1–September 30, 10.00–18.30. Closed: May 1, November 1, December 25 and January 1. There is an entry charge.
Musée de la Tour An interesting presentation of local history and traditions housed in part of the medieval city walls. 1 Rue de l’Orme, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 92 90 54 28 Open: By appointment only for groups of 8 people minimum, 18 people maximum. There is an entry charge. Les Bains-Douches Municipal Gallery The former public bath-house is now home to changing exhibitions of the work of contemporary artists. Boulevarde d’Aguillon à Antibes, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 93 34 74 30 Free entry.
Musée Peynet et du Dessin Humoristique Raymond Peynet was a cartoonist and naive artist who lived and worked in Antibes and his former home now displays a collection of his work as well as temporary exhibitions by other artists. Place Nationale, 06600 Antibes Tel: 04 92 90 54 29 and 04 92 90 54 30 Fax: 04 92 90 54 31 Open: Every day except Mondays 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00. Closed: Mondays, May 1, November 1, December 25 and January 1. There is an entry charge.
Villa Eilenroc Located on the Cap d’Antibes this Belle Epoque masterpiece was the creation of Charles Garnier, the architect of the Paris and Monte Carlo opera houses. The house and grounds give an insight into the luxurious world of the wealthy denizens of Antibes at the end of the nineteenth century. Impasse Beaumont, 06160 Antibes Tel: 04 93 67 74 33 Open: 1 April–30 June, Wednesday and Saturday 10.00–17.00; 1 July–30 September, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 15.00–19.00; 1 October–31 March, Wednesday and Saturday 13.00–16.00. Opening hours are subject to change, please telephone to confirm. There is an entry charge.
Bastion Saint-Jaume Part of the extensive fortifications around Port Vauban now provides a home for the gigantic sculpture by Jaume Plensa called the “Nomad” which is fast becoming an icon of the modern face of Antibes. Open: Every day except Monday. 1 July–31 August 10.00–23.00, 1 September–30 June 10.00–20.00. Closed: November 1. Free entry.
Nearby village of Biot Only a short bus ride from Antibes is the delightful hill village of Biot. This ancient settlement with its narrow cobbled streets and charming buildings is a magnet for tourists in the summer and is home to glass-blowing and pottery workshops. Just outside the village is a museum dedicated to the life and work of Fernand Léger which is well worth a visit. Fernand Léger National Museum A unique collection of paintings, ceramics, mosaics and stained glass dedicated to an important and innovative artist of the twentieth century. Chemin du Val de Pôme, 06410 Biot Tel: 04 93 53 87 28 Fax: 04 93 81 13 11 Website: www.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr Open: Every day except Tuesday. 1 May–31 October 10.00–18.00, 1 November–30 April 10.00–17.00. Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25. There is an entry charge.
These leisure related developments have mushroomed and Port Vauban is now the largest yachting harbour in Europe, offering a tax-friendly anchorage to the playthings of those from the merely wealthy to billionaires and multinational corporations. The ‘value’ of these ostentatious symbols rubbing shoulders with one another must rival that of the economies of many small nations. Amazing, impressive, vulgar and obscene are all adjectives that could be used to describe the scene depending on your point of view.
