Sitting on the banks of the Rhône lies this ancient city, an important place even before the Romans arrived in 123BC. They developed the city of Arelate which became a busy port, cultural centre and colony for retired soldiers of the Sixth Legion. Echoes of this ancient past are still manifest in the town, be that in the Arena, the Gallo-Roman Theatre, the Alyscamps (necropolis) or the Baths of Constantine. Many of these remains are so well preserved that it is easy, with a little imagination, to roll away the millennia and conjure up a world so different from that of the 21st century.
After the relative tranquility of the Roman period the area became subject to turbulent times, fought over by Saracens, Vikings and a succession of competing warlords and noble factions. In 933 the Kingdom of Arles was created but this grand title disguised the fact that the fortunes of the city had declined drastically since Roman times. Political and economic prominence was regained under Frederick Barbarossa, the Holy Roman Emperor, and Arles became a free city, a status it retained until the revolution of 1789. In 1378 the kingdom ceased to exist when it was ceded to the French monarchy.
The latest revival in reputation came from a rather different direction. By the time Vincent Van Gogh made his way to Arles in 1888, the town had become something of a backwater. Its stategic status had always been eclipsed by nearby Marseille and its importance as a river trading centre had diminished since the arrival of the railway. Vincent arrived full of hope about creating a new school of painting, or ‘studio of the south’, and although this grand ambition ended in failure and mental torment, Arles was the inspiration for over 300 paintings and drawings. This legacy has guaranteed a pivotal place in the history of modern art and this is celebrated throughout the town today.
HOW TO GET TO ARLES
By plane The most convenient local airport is Marseille-Provence International Airport which is well-served by air services from the UK including daily flights from London Heathrow (British Airways), London Gatwick (Easy Jet) and London Stansted (Ryanair). It is then possible to take a train from Marseille Vitrolles Airport to Arles with a journey time of approximately 40 minutes.
By train from Paris Starting at the Gare de Lyon in Paris there are numerous services to Arles involving changes at Lyon, Avignon, Nîmes, Montpellier or Marseille. At Avignon it will also be necessary to change stations but there is a convenient bus link between the two. The total journey time varies between 4 and 5 hours. There is also a bus service from Avignon to Arles. It is possible to travel to Arles from London St Pancras in approximately 8 hours.
By road Arles is approximately 744km from Paris and the journey time can vary between 6 hours 30 minutes and 8 hours. This would involve travelling on the A6B, A6/E15 (Autoroute du Soleil) via Lyon then A7/E15 (Autoroute du Soleil) via Valence and Orange then A9/E15 (La Languedocienne) via Nimes then A54, N572 and N113 to Arles. Marseille is 93km with a drive time of 1 hour, Avignon is 40km with a drive time of 45 minutes, Nîmes is 32km with a drive time of 30 minutes, Montpellier is 78km with a drive time of 50 minutes.
Tourist information Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Boulevard des Lices, 13200 Arles Tel: 04 90 18 41 20 Fax: 04 90 18 41 29 E-mail: ot-arles@visitprovence.com Website: www.arlestourisme.com Open: 2nd January – 29th March and 2nd November – 31st December, Monday to Saturday 09.00–16.45, Sunday and public holidays 10.00–13.00 (by phone 09.00–13.00 and 14.00–16.45); 30th March – 27th September, Monday to Saturday 09.00–18.45 (by phone 09.00–13.00 and 14.00–18.00); 28th September – 31st October, Monday to Saturday 09.00–17.45, Sundays 10.00–13.00 (by phone 09.00–13.00 and 14.00–17.45)
MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST
Although Arles suffered damage from Allied air strikes as part Operation Anvil in August 1944 and several significant buildings were destroyed, the streets of the old town still present a tableau of history from Roman times, through the Middle Ages to the present day.
The Amphitheatre (Arena) An architectural gem dating from the 1st century AD this arena still hosts bullfights and other spectacles. During the Middle Ages it was converted into a fortified city quarter but was restored to its original function in the 19th century. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–19.00; March, April, October, 10.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
The Roman Theatre Even older than the amphitheatre, this impressive monument was at the heart of the Roman city. Although the structure was looted for building materials for several centuries and its original function was forgotten, enough of the fabric remains for it to be used once again for theatrical performances. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–19.00; March, April, October, 10.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
The Cryptoportico This is basically the under-storey of the ancient Roman Forum and is accessed through the vestibule of the Hôtel de Ville. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–19.00; March, April, October, 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
The Baths of Constantine Although only partially restored these impressive remains date back to the 4th century AD and give a good impression of this most vital of Roman institutions. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–19.00; March, April, October, 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
Les Alyscamps (Necropolis) The remains of a Roman graveyard arranged as an avenue lined with sarcophagi at the end of which is the Romanesque church of Saint Honorat. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–19.00; March, April, October, 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–12.00 and 14.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
Church of Saint Trophime The outstanding feature of this church is the 12th century carved portal, inspired by Roman architecture, which was completely renovated in the 1990’s. Open: Monday to Friday 08.00–12.00 and 13.45–18.45; Saturday 09.00–13.00 and 14.00–18.00; Sunday 09.00–13.00 and 14.00–18.00. Free entry.
Cloisters of Saint Trophime Superbly decorated with sculptures dating from the 12th and 14th centuries. It is also possible to visit the roof and get an interesting view of the church. Open: May to September, every day 09.00–19.00; March, April, October, 09.00–18.00; November to February, 10.00–17.00. There is an entry charge.
Musée Départemental de l’Arles Antique (Arles archaeological museum) This relatively new museum close to the Roman Circus has an impressive collection of local and regional archeaological artifacts including the remains of a Roman barge and associated objects. 1 Avenue Jean Monnet, 13635 Arles Tel: 04 91 14 59 30 Fax: 04 91 14 59 31 E-mail: info.mapa@cg13.fr Website: www.arles-antique.cg13.fr Open: Wednesday to Monday 10.00–18.00 Closed: 1st January, 1st may, 1st November, 25th December. There is an entry charge.
Musée Réattu The museum is named after Jacques Réattu who was a prominent artist in the early 19th century and there is an impressive collection of his work combined with drawings by Picasso and paintings and sculpture by other, more contemporary, artists. Part of the building was once the Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta and dates back to the 15th century. 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 13200 Arles Tel: 04 90 49 37 58 Fax: 04 90 49 36 97 Website: www.museereattu.arles.fr Open: 2nd November–28 February, Tuesday to Sunday 10.00–17.00, 1st March–31st October 10.00–18.00. Closed: Monday and 1st January, 1st May, 1st November, 25th December. There is an entry charge. Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles Now housed in a new building this institution is dedicated to the Dutch master and hosts temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists inspired by his work. Occasionally original works by Van Gogh are on display. 35ter Rue du Docteur Fanton, 13200 Arles Tel: 04 90 93 08 08 E-mail: contact@fvvga.org Website: www.fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org Open: Tuesday to Sunday 11.00–18.00 Closed: Mondays, 25th December, 1st January
After the relative tranquility of the Roman period the area became subject to turbulent times, fought over by Saracens, Vikings and a succession of competing warlords and noble factions. In 933 the Kingdom of Arles was created but this grand title disguised the fact that the fortunes of the city had declined drastically since Roman times. Political and economic prominence was regained under Frederick Barbarossa, the Holy Roman Emperor, and Arles became a free city, a status it retained until the revolution of 1789. In 1378 the kingdom ceased to exist when it was ceded to the French monarchy.
