The history of Villefranche extends back to Greek and Roman times when it’s sheltered cove offered an ideal location for a harbour and trading settlement. In the early Middle Ages Barbary pirates took advantage of the site until the powerful Counts of Provence usurped them and established a permanent population with the port enjoying tax-free trade. During this period the region was subject to conflict between competing noble factions but a degree of stability was finally established when the settlement was ceded to the Duke of Savoy and it became his principal military and commercial port. This remained the case until Nice was developed in the eighteenth century.
However the shores and communities of the Mediterranean remained vulnerable to attack in the seemingly continuous rivalries and power struggles and in 1543 the harbour was occupied briefly by the Franco-Turkish fleet commanded by Khayr ad-Din Barbarossa. In response Duke Emmanuel-Philibert of Savoy ordered new fortifications to be built and so Fort Mont Alban and the citadel of Saint-Elme were constructed.
The citadel was completed in 1557 and it is still a dominant feature of the town, even though creeping urbanisation has slightly diminished its presence. During the Revolution the town was re-occupied by the French and remained part of the Napoleonic Empire until 1814 when it was returned to the Kingdom of Sardinia. In the unsettled period of the Risorgimento when Italy was striving for unification the town was again ceded to France and this was confirmed by a popular vote in 1860. The deep water harbour has always made Villefranche a strategic location and the Russians used it as a naval base in the late nineteenth century and it was later the home port of the U.S. 6th Fleet from 1948 to 1966. The narrow streets of the old town, clustered in maze-like confusion around the harbour, present an appealing reminder of days-gone-by although many of the dwellings have now been converted to chic boutiques, galleries and restaurants.
Historically the principal occupation of the town was harvesting the produce of local waters and there are still a few fishing boats and a daily market on the quayside where the usual confusion of nets and tackle can be seen close to the chapel of St Pierre. However the principal business of the community is now tourism and the new harbour buildings are there to provide a welcome for the thousands of visitors who come ashore from cruise liners which anchor in the bay. The buildings along the quayside are now devoted to restaurants, bars and shops catering for the tourist trade and urbanisation now creeps up into the surrounding hills and Villefranche is now practically a suburb of Nice.
HOW TO GET TO VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER By air Nice Côte d’Azure is the third busiest airport in France and is located approximately 14km from Villefranche. It is well served with regular flights from several airports in the UK. From the airport there are good links to Villefranche by bus, rail and taxi and there are plenty of car rental companies. By train Nice-Ville is the nearest TGV station with regular connections from Paris and other principal cities in France. Villefranche-sur-Mer is on the TER line from Nice to Ventigmilia in Italy and there are numerous services throughout the day and the journey time is a mere 7 or 8 minutes. By bus Villefranche is served by bus lines 80 from Nice Riquier, 81 from Nice Promenade des Arts and 100 from Nice Le Port all operated by Lignes d’Azur with frequent services throughout the day. By car The A8 or “la Provençale” motorway passes close to Nice. Take exit 50 (for Promenade des Anglais) and then follow M6098 for Nice Centre and then towards Monaco/Menton.
Tourist information in Nice Jardin François Binon 06230 Villefranche-sur-Mer Tel: +33(0)4 93 01 73 68 Website: www.tourisme-villefranche-sur-mer.com E-mail: ot@villefranche-sur-mer.com Open: January–March, Monday–Saturday 09.00–12.00 and 13.00–17.00; April–June 14, Monday–Saturday 09.00–12.30 and 14.00–17.30; June 15–September 15, every day 09.00–18.30; September 16–October 31, Monday–Saturday 09.00–12.30 and 14.00–17.30; November–December, Monday–Saturday 09.00–12.00 and 13.00–17.00. Closed: December 25 and January 1 Cruise Terminal 06230 Villefranche-sur-Mer For passengers only and opening hours depending on boats schedule.
MUSEUMS AND PLACES OF INTEREST
Saint Elme Citadel The massive fortifications overlooking the harbour and old town were built in the sixteenth century to protect this strategic port when it was part of the Kingdom of Savoy. The commune purchased it in 1981 and it now houses the town hall, several museums, a conference centre, open-air theatre and gardens. Entrance is free. La Citadelle, 06230 Villefranche-sur-Mer
Les Musées de la Citadelle All the museums listed are open every day except Sunday mornings but are closed in November. Entrance is free to all museums.
Musée Volti Antoniucci Volti (1915–1989) was born in Italy but lived for most of his life in Villefranche. He began his career as a sculptor in the 1940s after studying in Paris and his work celebrates the female figure in monumental but sensual bronzes which are dramatically displayed in a series of chambers that were once part of the citadel blockhouses.
Musée Goetz-Boumeester This art collection is housed in the old military barracks and was donated by Henri Goetz who was a French-American painter and engraver who was a friend of Léger and Kandinsky. The work on display is mainly by him and his wife Christine and can be described as Surrealist in nature but there are also paintings by Picasso, Picabia, Miro and Hartung.
Collection Roux This is an impressive collection of over 300 polychrome ceramic figurines representing characters from the Middle Ages and Renaissance periods.
Military Museum From 1876 to 1939 the 24th Battalion Chasseurs Alpins had their barracks in the citadel and there is a small museum dedicated to them including military honours, historic photographs and pennants.
Chapelle St Pierre Located on the old harbour this tiny chapel has been a place of worship for fishermen over many centuries and the present building dates from the sixteenth century. When the much larger church of St Michel was built it fell out of use and became a store for nets and part of the building is now used as an administrative office for the fishing industry. In 1956 the artist and writer Jean Cocteau undertook the restoration and decoration of the building and the interior has frescoes depicting events in the life of St Peter. Open: Winter 09.30–12.30 and 14.00–18.00; Spring and Summer 09.30–12.00 and 15.00–19.00. Closed: Every Monday and Tuesday, November 15– December 15, and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Rue Obscure This intriguing subterranean street dates back to the fourteenth century and was the subject of a painting by Cocteau and also the location of some scenes from his film The Testament of Orpheus.
L’église St Michel Originally dating from the fourteenth century the present edifice is in the Baroque style and was built in the eighteenth century. It contains an impressive organ by the Grinda brothers and a life-size carving of Christ in fig-tree wood, supposedly the work of a galley slave.
Chapelle St Elizabeth This dates from the sixteenth century and is now the venue for temporary art exhibitions.
The citadel was completed in 1557 and it is still a dominant feature of the town, even though creeping urbanisation has slightly diminished its presence. During the Revolution the town was re-occupied by the French and remained part of the Napoleonic Empire until 1814 when it was returned to the Kingdom of Sardinia. In the unsettled period of the Risorgimento when Italy was striving for unification the town was again ceded to France and this was confirmed by a popular vote in 1860. The deep water harbour has always made Villefranche a strategic location and the Russians used it as a naval base in the late nineteenth century and it was later the home port of the U.S. 6th Fleet from 1948 to 1966. The narrow streets of the old town, clustered in maze-like confusion around the harbour, present an appealing reminder of days-gone-by although many of the dwellings have now been converted to chic boutiques, galleries and restaurants. 
