Nice is very often the first sight many visitors have of the Côte d’Azur by virtue of it being home to the region’s major international airport. As the plane comes in to land the unique blue of the Bay of Angels makes an unforgetable impression. However, the the city has been drawing the crowds for much longer than aircraft have been flying to and fro.
In fact it was the sandeled feet of the ancient Greeks that first trod these shores when they established a trading colony which they called Nicaea in honour of Nike, the goddess of victory. They were followed by the Romans and evidence of their settlement of Cemenelum is still to be seen in the district of Cimiez, close to the Matisse museum.
When the Roman Empire crumbled the independently-mined city joined the Genoese League but for several centuries the region was subject to occupation and domination by Muslim forces. In the Middle Ages its strategic position meant that it was a prize in the tussle for power between the Kings of France, the Holy Roman Emperors and the Counts of Provence but it always strived to retain its independence. In 1388 the city allied itself with the Counts of Savoy and this would be an enduring political relationship until 1860 but there were frequent periods of invasion, occupation, pestilence and famine.
The city first became part of France for a short time under Napoleon Bonaparte but it wasn’t until 1860 that Napoleon III finally secured Nice in the fallout of the wars of Italian Independence and Garibaldi, who was born in the city, was never reconciled to this development. Many Italians moved out of the city and settled in Ventimiglia and Bordighera just across the new border. The Italians did return to administer the city in the Second World War in 1942–43.
The moderate winter climate has been a draw for wealthy visitors since the 18th century, many of whom were members of the English ‘upper-crust’ and undoubtedly the most notable of these was Queen Victoria herself. It was their influence that led to the construction of the waterfront walkway and it being called La Promenade des Anglais. This replaced a rather shabby roadway behind the shingle beach and the transformation was furthered by the building of many ‘swanky’ hotels, first amongst which is the Hotel Negresco, opened in 1912. The photo shows the pier and Crystal Casino in 1900.
During the First World War the city was sufficiently distant from the hostilities in the north to become a magnet for those seeking refuge from the hardships of conflict. Amongst them were many artists and writers, Henri Matisse being a notable example. During the inter-war years the hedonist reputation of Nice continued to attract the rich and famous but the city was not to entirely escape the privations of the Second World War.
After the defeat of Italy the city was occupied by the Germans who introduced a far less benign regime with any acts of resistance being met with severe reprisals and executuons. In the latter stages of the war the city was heavily bombed by the Americans and casualties were added to by the effects of famine. The city was finally liberated in August 1944 but recovery from the economic and social consequences would take years.
The second half of the 20th century saw an enormous expansion in the tourist industry and the city is no longer the exclusive preserve of the wealthy elite. Ethnic diversity has also changed since the influx of refugees from Algeria in the 1960’s and in more recent years there have been further waves of migration which have affected the city’s social profile.
HOW TO GET TO NICE
By air Nice Côte d’Azure is the third busiest airport in France and is located approximately 3km southwest of the city. It is well served with regular flights from several airports in the UK. There is a good bus link from the airport to the city’s main railway station (line 99) or the Riquier bus station (line 98). There are, of course, plenty of car rental companies at the airport.
By train Gare de Nice Ville is the principal station for the city and is housed in an elegant Belle Epoch edifice. There are direct services via TVG with Paris, Bordeaux and other French and international destinations. There are also comprehensive services to regional and local destinations.
By bus Based at the Gare Routiere there are international bus services run by Eurolines as well as companies (Phoceens Santa Azur and Rapides Cote d’Azur) providing regular connections to regional and local destinations.
By car The A8 or “la Provençale” motorway passes close to Nice and is served by 5 exits to various parts of the city.
By boat Port de Nice is well served by SNMC ferries and there are connections to Corsica, North African and other European ports.
Tourist information in Nice There are 3 offices in the city: Promenade des Anglais 5, Promenade des Anglais, BP 4079, 06302 Nice Tel: +33(0)4 92 14 46 14 Website: www.nicetourisme.com E-mail: via website Open: June–September, every day 09.00–19.00; October–May Monday–Saturday 09.00–18.00 Closed: December 25 and January 1 Promenade du Paillon 5, Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice Tel: +33(0)4 92 14 46 14 Website: www.nicetourisme.com E-mail: via website Open: June–September, every day 09.00–19.00; 2 December–1 January (Christmas village), every day 10.00–17.00 Gare SNCF Avenue Thiers, Gare SNCF, 06000 Nice Tel: +33(0)4 92 14 46 14 Website: www.nicetourisme.com E-mail: via website Open: June–September, every day 09.00–19.00; October–May Monday–Saturday 09.00–18.00, Sunday 10.00–17.00 Closed: December 25, January 1 and May 1
MUSEUMS AND PLACES OF INTEREST
Musée Matisse The museum is housed in an impressive Italianate villa set amidst olive groves in the Cimiez district close to where the artist lived for many years at the Hotel Regina. The comprehensive collection includes work from all periods of the artist’s life an is complimented by personal objects which adds context to the artworks. It is also only a short walk to the Franciscan Monastery where the artist is buried alongside his wife and with the grave of Raoul Dufy close by. 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, 06000 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 81 08 08 E-mail: musee.matisse@ville-nice.fr Website: www.musee-matisse-nice.org Open: 23 June–15 October Wednesday–Monday10.00–18.00, 16 October–22 June Wednesday–Monday 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Tuesday and January 1, Easter, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée Masséna Housed in an impressive Belle Epoque villa on the Promenade des Anglais the museum houses collections of paintings, sculptures, furniture and other items that trace the history of Nice from the arrival of the first winter visitors in the 18th century through to the early decades of the 20th. Several paintings that appear on the self-guided walk can be seen in the museum. 65 Rue de France, Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 91 19 10 E-mail: via website Website: www.nice.fr/culture/musees-et-galeries Open: 2 January–22 June 11.00–18.00, 23 June–15 October 10.00–18.00, 16 October–31 December 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Tuesday and January 1, Easter, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée des Beaux-Arts The first municipal museum was established by Napoleon III and it moved to the present sumptuous villa in 1928. It is slightly away from the centre of town but well worth the visit for the impressive collection of artwork from the 14th to 20th century including work by Fragonard, the Barbizon school, Dufy, Rodin, Mossa, Carpeaux and Jules Chéret (after whom the museum was sometimes known). Some of the paintings that appear on the self-guided walk can be seen in the gallery. 33 Avenue des Baumettes, 06000 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 92 15 28 28 E-mail: via website Website: www.nice.fr/culture/musees-et-galeries Open: 2 January–22 June 11.00–18.00, 23 June–15 October 10.00–18.00, 16 October–31 December 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Monday and January 1, Easter, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée International d’Art Naif Anatole Jakovsky Housed in the Château Sainte-Hélène, which was the former residence of the perfumier François Coty, the collections offers an overview of naïve painting from the 18th century to the present. Several paintings that appear on the self-guided walk can be seen in the museum. Château Sainte-Hélène, 23 Avenue de Fabron, 06200 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 71 78 33 E-mail: via website Website: www.nice.fr/culture/musees-et-galeries Open: 2 January–22 June 11.00–18.00, 23 June–15 October 10.00–18.00, 16 October–31 December 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Tuesday and January 1, Easter, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée National Marc Chagall This is a purpose-built gallery, created in the artist’s lifetime, housing the most important collection of his works with a biblical theme. Although Chagall’s paintings do not feature in the self-guided walk, this museum is well worth a visit and the assembly of his large, vibrant paintings offer a memorable and moving experience. Avenue Docteur Ménard (Angle Boulevard de Cimiez), 06000 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 53 87 20 Fax: +33 (0)4 93 81 13 11 E-mail: visiteguide-mn06@culture.gouv.fr Website: www.musee-chagall.fr Open: May–October 10.00–18.00, November–April 10.00–17.00. Closed: Every Tuesday and January 1, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC) This striking example of modern gallery architecture houses a collection which highlights the key role of Nice in art movements from the 1960’s to the present day as well as work by leading American artists. Place Yves Klein, 06364 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 97 13 42 02 Fax: +33 (0)4 97 13 42 02 E-mail: mamac@ville-nice.fr Website: www.mamac-nice.org Open: 2 January–22 June 11.00–18.00, 23 June–15 October 10.00–18.00, 16 October–31 December 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Monday and January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1 and December 25. There is an entry fee.
Musée d’Archeologie de Nice – Site de Cimiez The museum is close by the archaeoligical site of Cemenelum, once the capital of the Roman province of Alpes Maritimae founded by Emperor Augustus in 14bc. The open-air site has remains of the ampitheatre, thermal baths, paved streets and a Palaeo-Christian complex. The museum itself has collections of artifacts from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages. 160 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, 06100 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 81 59 57 Fax: +33 (0)4 93 81 59 57 E-mail: via website Website: www.nice.fr/culture/musees-et-galeries Open: 2 January–22 June 11.00–18.00, 23 June–15 October 10.00–18.00, 16 October–31 December 11.00–18.00. Closed: Every Tuesday and January 1, Easter, May 1 and December 25. Entry is free.
Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe Patriarcat de Moscou The largest Orthodox church outside Russia was built in the early years of the 20th century with the support of Tsar Nicolas II and his mother Empress Marie Feodorona and was the focus for the extensive Russian community on the Riviera. As well as an ornate exterior, inside it is richly decorated with many icons, murals, carved and gilded woodwork and an iconostasis of embossed metal. Avenue Nicolas II–Boulevard Tzarévitch, 06000 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 97 81 09 53 45 Open: April–October 09.00–12.00 and 14.00–18.00, November–March 09.30–12.00 and 14.00–17.30. Entry is free. Guided tours available for a fee.
The moderate winter climate has been a draw for wealthy visitors since the 18th century, many of whom were members of the English ‘upper-crust’ and undoubtedly the most notable of these was Queen Victoria herself. It was their influence that led to the construction of the waterfront walkway and it being called La Promenade des Anglais. This replaced a rather shabby roadway behind the shingle beach and the transformation was furthered by the building of many ‘swanky’ hotels, first amongst which is the Hotel Negresco, opened in 1912. The photo shows the pier and Crystal Casino in 1900.
