For an art-lover no visit to Haut-de-Cagnes is really complete without a ‘pilgimage’ to the Domaine des Collettes, the last home of Pierre Auguste Renoir and now a museum dedicated to his life and work. The estate is situated on the other side of the valley to the east of Haut-de-Cagnes. If time is running short or energy is beginning to flag take the free bus down to Square Bourdet in the new town and it is then a relatively short walk from there. Alternatively the local bus number 49 will take you to the museum entrance.
Appropriately, head east along Avenue Auguste Renoir and you will see a major road junction ahead. Ignore the road on the left leading to the Police Municipale station and carry straight on. Busy roads will join on left and right but carry on and pass Rue Modigliani and Rue Degas. Continue straight on at the next major intersection with Avenue de la Gaude and the road now becomes Avenue des Tuilières. After a few more steps you will come to a narrow road on the left called Passage Auguste Renoir and there should also be a sign indicating the pedestrian route to the museum. This turns to the right and joins Chemin des Collettes and you are now on the road that leads uphill to the museum entrance.
It was in 1908 that he and his family moved into the house that had been specially designed for him, equipped with ‘all mod cons’ of the time. The artist was already suffering from severe rheumatoid arthritis but his creative motivation was not to be suppressed by physical discomfort and he continued painting until the very last day of his life on 3rd December 1919. It was also in this last decade that he took up sculpture aided by Richard Guino and later Louis Morel.
There is a moving presentation in the artist’s studio of his working methods enhanced by a poignant clip of film showing the lengths he went to overcome physical handicaps in pursuit of his art. Confined to a wheelchair his assistants would mix paint following his directions and then insert the loaded brush between his crippled fingers. They would also keep the artist supplied with lighted cigarettes slipped between his waiting lips. Henri Matisse once asked him why he continued to paint under such conditions to which he replied, “The pain passes, but the beauty remains”.
The house is laid out much as Renoir would have known it and also contains a collection of original paintings and sculptures by the artist and his friends. He entertained many of the leading figures in the art world including Rodin, Matisse, Bonnard and Modigliano, all of whom were influenced by this great exponent of Impressionism. Although most of his work has its roots in this nineteenth century movement, he remained open-minded about new ideas and undoubtedly contributed to artistic developments in the twentieth.
Although the grounds surrounding the house are much smaller than the original estate there is still a magnificent collection of venerable olive trees and it is not difficult to conjure up the image of Renoir sitting in the shade capturing the view. There are two information panels both showing paintings that are on display in the house. The first of these is Paysages des Collettes painted in 1914 and shows the distant old town framed by ancient olives. It is still possible to get exactly the same view and transport yourself back in time.
The second panel shows La Ferme des Collettes painted a year later. The gardens have been restored in such a way that Renoir would have no difficulty in recognising the view and the olive tree in front of the building is still there but even grander in stature today.
In 2012 Gilles Bourdos directed a French language film called “Renoir” which is a drama concerning the life of the artist during the First World War and his relationship with his son Jean and his last model, Andrée Heuschling (also known as Catherine Hessling). The film was made at Domaine des Collettes and is highly recommended as a recreation of the final years of Renoir’s life.
It was in 1908 that he and his family moved into the house that had been specially designed for him, equipped with ‘all mod cons’ of the time. The artist was already suffering from severe rheumatoid arthritis but his creative motivation was not to be suppressed by physical discomfort and he continued painting until the very last day of his life on 3rd December 1919. It was also in this last decade that he took up sculpture aided by Richard Guino and later Louis Morel.
Although the grounds surrounding the house are much smaller than the original estate there is still a magnificent collection of venerable olive trees and it is not difficult to conjure up the image of Renoir sitting in the shade capturing the view. There are two information panels both showing paintings that are on display in the house. The first of these is Paysages des Collettes painted in 1914 and shows the distant old town framed by ancient olives. It is still possible to get exactly the same view and transport yourself back in time.
The second panel shows La Ferme des Collettes painted a year later. The gardens have been restored in such a way that Renoir would have no difficulty in recognising the view and the olive tree in front of the building is still there but even grander in stature today. 
